Now that we have cleaned and checked over the valve train parts and purchased whatever didn't pass muster, we can start putting it all together.

The block shoud have all of the machine work finished.

This should include drilling and deburrint the lifter bores if adjustable lifters are being used. Check each lifter bore with a lifter to make sure it is free in the bore.

Do what you need to for the lifter to move freely. These holes should be located low on the lifter bosses; we use a 5/32-inch drill bit. Using an Allen wrench through the hole to engage the slots in the lifter is far easier than trying to get two wrenches in the same space where there is barely room for one.

Why an Allen wrench?

Becuase they are tough, less likely than a drill bit to break or bend, and they have a built in handle.

The block should be cleaned for assembly. No dirt, honing residue, maching chips or any other contaminants should be allowed. Cleanliness is next to Fordliness, especially here. If you have to drill the gllery plugs to get them out, do that.

Support the block so it is secure and at a comfortable height to work on. If you support a '48 and earlier block by the bellhousing bolt holes, cut a piece of wood the correct length to support the front also. More than one block has been lost by breaking the bellhousing off.

Install the cam bearings. Be careful to line up the oil holes between the bearings and the block. The rear upper hole also has to allow the fuel pump pushrod to pass through. Check that before proceeding.

Install the gallery plugs now, before you cover up the holes. Lube the cam lobes and eccentric with assembly lube, and the journals and bearings with engine oil.

A couple of 6-inch long bolts in the front of cams that use a bolt on gear make a handle to aid in the insertion. Be careful, don't cut cam bearing material out with the edge or a lobe.

When the cam is all the way in, make sure it turns freely. If not, find out why and fix it now while the block is outherwise empty. You did verify cam journal size and get the correct bearings, right? They are available in STD, -.010-inch and -.020-inch, as well as +.015-inch and +.080-inch on the OD.

If you have a cam with a press on gear it should already be on the cam. If a bolt on, put it on now with a new cam bolt lock plate. You can use Loctite for added insurance. Use only the correct, shouldered bolts here.

We install the crankshaft next. It's the safest, easiest way to turn the cam with the valve train in place. Rod and piston assemblies are installed after all valve train work is finished. Don't turn the cam with a lever between two cam gear bolts; it is easy to crack the flange from a bolt hole to the OD.